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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate well-known high-end venues. But, nestled near the top among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

This compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. The accolade has made the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” states the family member, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that led to their small restaurant earning such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier character. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the fare, and this establishment more than excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy texture.

It is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this culinary honour.